Beyond Ornamental: Merchant Roots ‘In Bloom’ Redefines Botanical Dining
San Franciscans recognize Fillmore in SOMA for its grittier terrain. But behind unassuming blue gates at 1148 Mission Street, Merchant Roots crafts fantasies that defy urban expectations. Their Victorian logo hangs like a quiet invitation—inconspicuous, as if only those already seeking magic would notice it at all. My invitation to their new floral concept, 'In Bloom,' followed years of witnessing their ever-evolving dinner series—I knew precisely what sigil to search for in this unlikely landscape.
Stepping through the gated threshold, the urban reality erases immediately. Inside, arranged tables designed as a surreal picnic for two—complete with gingham tablecloths and fluffed embroidered flower pillows—whisper what's to come. Scattered petals adorn our flatbread, and seasonal strawberries glisten in violet syrup. The centerpiece's long-stemmed nasturtium flower commanded my attention. A closer look reveals the stem is seasoned asparagus, rising from anchovy aioli.
Yes, even the whimsical table decor demands to be eaten.
Flowers in every form imaginable, ingested through sight, smell, touch, taste, and sound.
The floral-themed playlist—Sunflower by Post Malone, Flowers in December by Mazzy Star, New Biome by Sure Sure—blurred the cinematic shift into fantasy. Not a single diner could deny the evidence: Chef Ryan Shelton and his team operate by different rules entirely.
We were no longer in SOMA.
‘In Bloom’s’ imaginative dinner service. Photo courtesy of Edible SF.
What distinguishes 'In Bloom' from mere floral garnishing is Shelton's insistence that blossoms be respected through flavor, not just aesthetics. Merchant Roots balances theatrical elements and culinary integrity. Eleven artfully prepared courses—served on custom plateware engineered in-house—prove no one else in the city executes themed dining with such ambition or entertainment value.
Their approach mirrors Pixar's storytelling discipline: deliver with such imaginative conviction that disbelief suspends entirely. Vegetable sprinkles. Crepes animated by liquid. A jasmine smoke-bomb releasing tableside, flooding the space with endless fragrance.
An explosion of cauliflower sprinkles, aptly named ‘Hundreds and Thousands’. Photo courtesy of Edible SF.
A detailed close-up of ‘Peasotto’ featuring English peas , quail egg, and grits. Photo courtesy of Edible SF.
Merchant Roots stands alone, not through novelty, but through complete artistic commitment. Every element earns its place, and beneath playful appearances lies masterful execution. In this unlikely corner, they've kindled something rare: dining that honors imagination as its own form of nourishment.
Their playful invitation yields a serious aftermath—an astonishing wonder that refuses to diminish with time.
merchantroots.com
1148 Mission Street