Excerpted with permission from Georgia: The Cookbook: Vibrant Recipes from the Heart of the Caucasus Mountains
WRITER/RECIPE Meriko Gubeladze & Benjamin Kemper
PHOTOGRAPHY Sam A. Harris
In a short story by the 19th-century writer Ilia Chavchavadze, an indolent, slovenly husband and wife loaf around their Kakheti farmhouse counting flies and debating which is tastier: bozbashi or chikhirtma (silky chicken and egg soup, page 154). Chavchavadze’s point, of course, is that only a moron would ask such a question since both are absolutely delicious. “Bozbash,” as it’s more widely known across the region, is a thick tomato soup of possible Azerbaijani origin bobbing with spiced meatballs. The dish is rarely seen on restaurant menus today and few Georgians outside Kakheti continue to make it, but it’s a real sleeper hit for anyone who loves spicy, tomatoey soups. Serve it with torn lavash or hunks of country bread.
Herby Lamb Meatballs in Tomato Broth (Bozbashi) ბოზბაში
Serves 4
Active time: 50 minutes
Total time: 1 hour 20 minutes
FOR THE MEATBALLS
1 large slice of white bread (40 g)
1 pound (450 g) ground lamb, or ground beef
2 cups (80 g) finely chopped mixed fresh herbs, preferably cilantro, parsley, and tarragon
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
¾ teaspoon caraway seeds, ground
¾ teaspoon crushed red chile flakes, divided
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 garlic cloves, mashed into a paste
1 small onion, grated
FOR THE BROTH
2 tablespoons olive or neutral oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
½ teaspoon crushed red chile flakes, or to taste
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
3 bay leaves
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
4 cups (1 L) beef, lamb, or chicken stock
2 cups (500 g) grated tomatoes, or puréed canned whole tomatoes
¾ cup (30 g) finely chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish
Instructions:
Make the meatballs: In a small bowl, soak the bread in water until soft, then squeeze out the excess liquid and transfer to a large bowl along with the lamb, herbs, salt, caraway, chile flakes, cinnamon, garlic, and onion. Using your hands, mix until well combined.
Roll a heaped tablespoon (scant 1 ounce / 26 g) of the meat mixture into a tight ball and transfer to a large plate. Repeat with the remaining meat mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes (or up to 24 hours).
Meanwhile, make the broth: To a large pot over medium-high heat, add the oil and onion and cook, stirring occasionally and lowering the heat as needed to prevent scorching, until very soft and deep golden brown, about 20 minutes. Turn the heat to medium. Add the chile flakes, allspice, bay leaves, and garlic and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes more, then pour in the stock and grated tomatoes and bring to a boil.
Carefully add the meatballs to the pot and simmer until cooked through, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cilantro, cook for 1 minute more, then ladle into bowls and serve topped with more cilantro.
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